By Ralph Green and Michael Salamon
Guest Columnists
A family member lays flowers near the site at the Nova Festival where Noa Englander was slain by Hamas terrorists on October 7, 2023.
Several months ago, the two of us had dinner together and discussed how tired we both were of reading Israeli news via traditional Western news and social media sources. Neither of us felt that we were getting a clear or accurate sense of what was going on. Meanwhile, each of us had wanted to return to Israel since October 7, 2023, and decided that evening that it was the right time to go. We quickly organized an impromptu trip so that we could meet with the Israeli people affected by these difficult times and find out for ourselves what was truly happening there. We ended up travelling for a week during late April and early May.
Our trip began in Tel Aviv and our first excursion was very powerful. We were taken south to the Sha’ar HaNegev Regional Council east of Gaza by Ralph’s friend Nir and his associate Amit. This is the area where many of Hamas’s attacks occurred. We had the honor of meeting with council officials who gave us a clear picture of what the people living in this area have been dealing with for the past 18 months, outlining the numerous challenges they still face. We were both impressed with their strength, courage, and determination to move forward with their lives. Their needs remain great, and government support is insufficient to provide everything they require. Nonetheless, they have ambitious goals such as building a new community center which will contain facilities and services to serve those suffering from the trauma of October 7.
From their offices near Sderot, we headed to the Nahal Oz kibbutz located directly along the border fences next to Gaza. This is one of the kibbutzim hit hardest by the October 7 attack. It includes one of the neighboring military outposts ravaged that day. People died here and hostages were taken. Over lunch and with the sound of artillery in the background, we had a long conversation with a resident of Nahal Oz who detailed his hours long battle with Hamas terrorists in and around their property. We were stunned into silence as he described how they fought for their lives for many hours prior to the IDF arriving. At Nahal Oz we stood atop a tank ramp along the fence peering directly into the rubble of northern Gaza. From this vantage point we could see and hear machine guns, loud artillery fire, smoke rising from areas just a couple kilometers away – and the constant low buzz of drones overhead.
Not long afterward we arrived at the Nova Music Festival site where so many young people were brutally murdered, tortured, raped, or taken hostage. The site has become a memorial to those who were slain that day, with photos of lost loved ones posted all around. It was gut wrenching to see hundreds of individual tributes, each with pictures and narratives of lives brutally cut short.
The most moving moment of the day, and probably the whole trip, was watching a man water roses on his daughter’s memorial with love and meticulous care. He painfully related to us the story of her going to the festival with her boyfriend who planned to propose to her at its conclusion. Before he had that chance, they were both slaughtered and looted, including the engagement ring.
After this emotional first day, we returned to Tel Aviv where we enjoyed a couple of days meeting people in cafes, restaurants, cigar lounges, and the beach. We had a wonderful time biking along the Yarkon River, cycling up to Herzliya and back. Superficially things seemed normal, but it was clear that the war and divisive Israeli politics are taking a toll. We were often asked – perhaps because there were so few tourists — why we were in Israel. We shared our reasons and were always thanked for coming. Our support for Israel was overwhelmingly appreciated by everyone we met.
Michael Salamon photographed in Jerusalem with the Jaffa Gate pictured in the background.
Purely by coincidence we were in Israel for Yom HaZikaron (the nation’s Memorial Day). We took a day trip north by train to the Western Galilee Medical Center in Nahariya, which is in our Partnership region. After an extensive tour by the center’s director, we were invited to participate in a Memorial Day program featuring colleagues of recently deceased soldiers who spoke movingly about their lost companions. We also met one of the few rescued hostages after he gave an incredible presentation detailing his abduction and eight months in captivity. The hospital leadership made a point to show their appreciation for everything the Jewish Community of Louisville has done to support their mission.
Two days later we made a long seaside trek to Jaffa, climbing to the top of a spectacular point overlooking Tel Aviv’s beach and skyline. At exactly 11 a.m. we stood while sirens blared for two minutes as activity came to a standstill throughout Israel. No matter where they were at that moment, drivers stopped their cars and got out of their vehicles to honor all of Israel’s true heroes.
Our adventure became even more interesting when Israel had some of the worst wildfires in its history. The fires, which were west of Jerusalem, forced the closure of the highways and trains between it and Tel Aviv, so we were lucky to get a train to Jerusalem that afternoon.
In contrast to Memorial Day, the next day was Yom HaAtzmaut (Israel Independence Day) which was much more celebratory and festive. We attended a large concert on Jaffa Street, where it was wonderful to see everyone dancing, singing, waving Israeli flags, and generally having a great time. We were moved by the immense national pride and patriotism of the crowd.
The next morning was Friday, when it seemed the entire population of Jerusalem was preparing for Shabbat. Michael and I walked to the Machne Yehuda market, very close to where we were staying, and walked around enjoying the sights, smells and tastes as well as observing the crowds of shoppers buying their favorite Shabbat fare. At about 1 p.m., the city began to shut down. The slowing pace of activity was genuinely calming. Walking after dinner, we were joined by many religious and non-religious pedestrians enjoying the peace and quiet of Shabbat.
As a stark reminder that things in Israel are far from normal, we were awoken early on Shabbat morning by air raid sirens instructing us to go to the bomb shelter in our building. The day before, we’d vividly heard an Iron Dome defensive rocket intercept a Houthi missile over Jerusalem. On our final day, Ralph had a 6 a.m. flight home — I was to leave late that same night. Three and a half hours after Ralph departed Israel, a Houthi ballistic missile struck the grounds of Ben Gurion airport, leaving my return home in jeopardy. I was incredibly lucky to be on the last United Airlines flight back to the United States that evening. Not long afterward, most airlines cancelled their scheduled flights in and out of Israel indefinitely.
Both of us had been to Israel prior to this trip; Ralph many times. This trip was truly unique given the difficult domestic situation. Memories of the lows and highs will remain with us for a lifetime. We hope to return to Israel soon in happier and more peaceful times.